Railroad Spike Coat Rack

Our entry isn’t huge, roughly eight by four and a half feet, but it is very nice to have a separate designated space.  With the door slightly off-center, there’s a sliver of wall with a box shelf to keep keys, sunglasses, and other necessities close by with a stool tucked below.  Across, there’s a half wall, where the living room floor starts.  It’s an awkward little wall, with the stairs going up that turns into a strange polygon.


Though we have an entry closet at the top of the stairs, and our newly added mud nook right inside the garage door at the base of the stairs, those are areas mainly used by our family.

Build in a mini mudroom: https://ourhumbleabodeblog.com/2016/04/01/mud-nook/

I wanted a quick and easy drop spot for our guests to hang coats, purses, and backpacks close to the front door.  After a day visiting Ben’s dad at the ranch, I found some great items to turn into a unique coat rack.  I also came home with an old horseshoe and another turtle shell to hang above the art in the dining room.  Such a treasure trove of goodies!


Anyway, back to the coat rack.  To start, I snagged a board of live edge wood along with a bunch of railroad spikes.


After discussing my idea with Ben, he helped me make my idea a reality.  While I thoroughly looked at the board, I settled on the most character filled three feet and cut it to size.  At three feet wide, I wanted to space 5 spikes six inches apart, leaving six inches on either end.  Following the shape of the wood, I marked five dots while Ben used a steel cutting chop saw to cut the spikes to three inches.


I didn’t want any visible attachment, so Ben drilled 3/4 inch holes, then used a rubber mallet to pound the spikes in.


Who says you can’t jam a square peg in a round hole?


The result is seamless, simple, and rustic-just the way I like it.


Hanging was as easy as two screws through the wood, into the floor joist.


Turning that little sliver into usable space should come in very handy this winter season, especially.


Style wise, the simplicity blends seamlessly with the adjacent living room.


The best part is that it took about 30 minutes, start to finish to make and hang.  I’m wondering if it’d be too much to make another to use as a towel rack.


A Simple Headboard

Sometimes it feels like we’re treading water on big projects-you know, doing a lot of work but easily goes unnoticed.  Wow, what an encouraging, uplifting way to start, huh?  You know what is uplifting?  Small, quick, straight forward projects to break up the longer, meatier ones we have going on.  With most of the basement wrapping up, we’re getting to the fun, really obvious changes stage of the game.  One of those changes was getting the Sleep Number mattress up and off the floor with a custom bed frame.


Basic dimensional lumber, stain, and poly can come together to create a sleek, modern frame.  To create the base, we followed almost the exact same steps as our bed frame.


It has held up well, costs about $100 in materials, and can be assembled in less than a day.  One noticeable difference is the headboard.  I love the splash of green in our bedroom, but wanted something warmer to contrast against the blue-gray in the basement.



After debating a variety of wood designs, I went with the KISS method and kept it simple, stupid.


Ben used 2 by 4 boards for a completely solid design.  I’m usually 100 percent opposed to the rounded edges of dimensional lumber, so we ran each board through the table saw before assembling.


With boards prepped, we cut to length, lined each up on the garage floor, and screwed boards to the back, connecting the pieces together.  For a finished edge, we used more 2 by 4 material to create a frame to wrap the edges.


These boards hide the edges as well as the vertical connecting pieces, leaving a 3/4 inch reveal.


We now have a neutral base to layer anything and everything on and around.


Pinstripe sheets, small plus sign pillow cases and a kilim throw pillow add a boost of pattern and playfulness to the room.


Next step, new night stands to replace the single petite dresser that is standing in.

A Deck Makeover & Cozy Outdoor Lounge Area

Four years ago, when we bought this house, it came with a large front deck and a paver patio.  Without adjectives, both spaces sound lovely.  I’m sure the paver patio was beautiful, but the lack of maintenance, weeds, and tree roots took a toll.


Replacing windows and siding was a priority, but before that could happen, we had to excavate a foot of dirt back here, build a low deck, and only then could we hang siding.  In home remodeling, each project seems to hinge on another aspect being ready.  Though we didn’t want to tackle landscaping first, it did give us a baseline to seamlessly transition siding.


None of that is new, and has been featured several times before.  But, there’s another deck that hasn’t been shared since move in, until today.  Before getting into the afters, here’s a look at the condition the front deck was in when we took ownership:




In a word, woof.  The railing that was so far from code/safety requirements, benches along the edge were uncomfortable and took up useful space, rotting/spongy joists, and splintered deck boards didn’t exactly make this space enjoyable.  It certainly had potential, but thanks to other more important projects, we just got around to rebuilding it last summer.  Due to the technical aspects, this isn’t a deck building tutorial.  Rather, it’s the kind of television makeover before and after without the work, sweat, and wait-surprise!!


Clearly, a lot has changed.  Everything, in fact.


We completely demoed the structure, rebuilding to meet or exceed code standards to ensure longevity.

Update: A reader emailed me, wanting to similarly cover an outdoor space, asking if/how much light the solid roof blocks?  Since others might have the same concerns, here’s my answer and our rationale why covering the deck was worth it.  This entire deck fronts the pool house, not our normal living space.  Since it is a pool house, it has 8 skylights, normal windows, and four sliding glass doors that flood the space with light, so the deck roof hasn’t changed the lighting too much.  Yes, it’s a touch darker, but totally worth the added usable outdoor living area and not becoming the human version of a roasting marshmallow.  That said, I don’t think this is the perfect solution for all outdoor spaces.  Before adding a cover, consider the size and orientation of the windows/doors and the room(s) it will potentially darken.


Redwood deck boards are smooth and splinter free, the railing is not only safe, but offers more privacy, not only to the deck, but the (currently nonfunctional) pool inside.  At 36 inches tall, the railing still doesn’t block the city/mountain views.  Instead, it hides just the street and houses across, even when seated because our house is on a steep hillside.  Thanks to the southern, full sun exposure, we decided to add a full roof, keeping the area as cool as possible.  When we swapped the dining door placement, we created a four-foot wide walkway off the front.


Over the long weekend, thanks to awesome sales, we picked up two World Market sofas (only $204 each!!) to create a comfortable lounge/seating area.  Until this point, this 900 square foot deck housed two grills, the bench in the background and that’s about it.


Last year, while we were rebuilding the deck, I started my search for outdoor furniture and came across a pair of linear wood frame chairs:Wood-Frame-Outdoor-Chairs

That screenshot has been on my phone for nearly a year, and for the life of me, I cannot remember the source.  But, I do know that I was instantly smitten, and wanted the same look.  Imagine my surprise when I was wandering around World Market and stumbled upon the Praiano set.  At $400 per sofa, it wasn’t a bad price, but I wasn’t ready to pull the trigger.  Fortunately for me, my patience pair off and I struck when the price dropped to $239.99 plus a 15% off coupon.


After patiently waiting a few months, I became impatient and bought, assembled, and lounged within 24 hours of getting the coupon in my inbox.


Those sleek lines have my heart.


And closely resemble the railing.  Haha, I guess I have flock to a distinct style.


The cushions are firm, but not uncomfortable.  However, the arms need some cush, so I pulled some indoor pillows from the linen closet to soften the hard wood frame.


For additional greenery, I added two potted Arborvitae trees in the corner of the center bump out.  The green seems so much more vibrant against the dark gray siding.


I’m still trying to track down chairs to round out the grouping, since these are standing in from our old, seen-better-days patio set.


Then there’s this sad, mostly empty corner.  Again, these pieces are standing in until we have time to build a dining table.


Ben and I have differing visions/layouts for the deck.  Mostly because he’d love to build an 18 foot long Last Supper style table to take place of the current lounge area.

Napa Style Residence

While I think that’d be really cool, I think we’re better off putting this corner to use as an extension of the adjacent indoor dining space.  Adding an overhead fixture to this area would also be pretty easy with the attic overhang and access.  Time will tell, but I’m thrilled to have a cozy place to escape the house to enjoy a book.

Oh, and the deck desperately needs a good wash to get rid of the dust and pollen.  In the above photo, the darker area between the furniture is the real color.

Eventually, we want to ‘build in’ the gas and charcoal grills to hide the stands for a polished look.

Furniture Thrifting Guidelines

It’s no secret I love hunting thrift stores for hidden gems.  Those dusty, dirty, seen-better-days pieces that make the perfect ugly duckling to beautiful goose transformations.  Far more often than not, I leave empty-handed or maybe with a small trinket, bowl, or more likely, a book or two.  Stumbling on those big furniture pieces is exciting, of course, but not too frequent.  But before I make a large (in terms of size) purchase, certain rules/criteria must be met:

  1.  Will this piece satisfy a need in our home?
  2. Do I have a place in mind for it?  Can it also work in other rooms?
  3. Do I like the shape, size, lines, style of this piece?  If not, can I change that?
  4. Is it sturdy and in good condition?  If not, how difficult it is to fix?
  5. Is it worth the price?  How much will I have to put into this piece to make it what I want?

I’ll get into each point as I go, and of course, for something I’m absolutely gaga over, I can make exceptions, usually in the need department.

First and foremost, do I need this?  I do realize I have a very small furniture hoarding problem, but mostly because we still have two large areas to furnish: the basement and pool house.  So, when I see something that might work, especially at a reasonable (or great) price, I get it.  Worst case scenario, I put it on Craigslist or donate it and eat the loss.

Two years ago, I scored a pair of chairs, which by the way, pairs seem incredibly elusive in my thrifting adventures, for ten dollars.  The petite size was surprisingly comfortable, yet lightweight enough to move easily.  After a thorough sanding, a couple of coats of polyurethane, and new fabric, they rounded out our family room seating arrangement.


Flash back to a fateful day this past November and you would have found me standing in a thrift store, staring at another pair of chairs, internal debate running through my head.  To buy or not to buy-that is the question.  I loved the lines and shape, the frames were in good, solid condition despite needing a refresh, and only $5 each.  People spend more than that on a specialty coffee, at least I’d have something to show for it, right?


In my mind, I knew they’d look great by the fireplace, in the exact spot I already had chairs.  Did I need this new set?  Nope, technically I didn’t.  Even so, I bought them with plans to use the previous set in the basement.  If they don’t work down there, for the two years of use we got out of them, I haven’t lost anything.  After my standard refinish + new fabric combo, the pair cost me roughly twenty dollars each.  More than anything, the size and style of these chairs works better in our family room.


Do I have a place for this?  Can it work in more than one room?  If you habitually change your mind, move things around, or just like a change of scenery, this is a big question.  Of course, the larger the item, the more difficult it will be to move around to different rooms.  This little dresser, a hand me down that previously belonged to my grandfather, has lived in several rooms and in both houses.  It can function as a dresser (duh) but could also work in a small nook, in an entry, or mini desk surface in a pinch.


Do I like the size/shape/style/lines of the piece?  Occasionally, friends will ask me to keep a look out for a specific piece they need, say, a dresser.  I’ll send pictures of anything that might work, and if I get the go ahead, I’ll buy it.  When I found this beaut, it also came with a mountable mirror.


Lucky for me, my friend didn’t need it, and I desperately wanted it for my main bathroom.  The size was perfect, the simple brass details were lovely, and I had wanted to add more wood tones.  A quick strip and oil coat added the warmth this bathroom needed.


Is it in good shape?  If not, can the damage be fixed?  I think Ben (and perhaps several others) thought I was nuts when I dragged this small orange sofa (settee?) home with me.  Right away though, those gorgeous legs had me interested.


Then I turned it around and saw the exposed wood frame detail on the back and that was it.  I had. to. have. it. Despite the loose joints, because wood joints, unlike the human variety, are typically very easy to fix with a little wood glue.


Since scratchy, smelly, 70’s fabric isn’t my bag, I followed my standard fix up recipe of refinished wood and new fabric for a look I love.


Fixing the frame was as simple as applying wood glue in the dowel holes, clamping, and letting it dry before sanding and staining.  Pieces with serious damage, like a missing leg, shouldn’t be passed over if all legs could be replaced.


Is it worth the price?  I feel like I’m notoriously cheap with my thrifting, but it really irks me when stores ask near full retail price for something that was donated.  I think the most I’ve paid for something from a thrift store (this does not include Craigslist) is this Drexel dresser, snagged for $67, originally priced at $90.  At the time, I was searching for a wooden dresser to fit between the beds, below the window.  Measuring about three feet wide and in very used condition, the $90 price tag seemed steep.  After a 30% discount, the price was more in line with the quality, considering I still had a full refinish before it looked nice.


Then, when the stars align, there’s the lucky you’ve been very patient, once-in-a-lifetime deal, such as the case of our Craigslist leather sofa.  Simple lines, beautiful leather, and listed at $220?


Throw every damn rule out the window, quickly contact the seller, and arrange to pick it up pronto.  Then thank your lucky stars you saw the beauty first and lovingly pet it while you watch tv.

Building a Sleek Railing

A few weekends back, we took the plunge and replaced our stair railings.


It was our first venture, with a few small things to figure out, but overall went smoothly.  To get started, we of course had to remove the old set, loosening the bolts from the underside first.


With the flat side out, we determined our new post placement.  Since the old railing was too close to the front door trim, we shifted the posts over an inch.


Ben cut the 4 by 4 inch post to size (38 inches above the floor with 11 inches below), set it in the hole, and cut another post in half length wise and to height for the wall side.  Neither were fastened in place so we could first attach the horizontal planks.  We purchased 2 by 6 boards, but ran the sides through the table saw to cut them down to 5 inches wide and take away the dimensional lumber look.  To save some time sanding, we also ran each plank through the planer for an ultra smooth finish.  Once all the boards were cut and prepped, we cut 4 inch spacers to make sure spacing between was even.


While I held the boards in place on the full post end, Ben worked on the half post side.  He screwed through the backside of the post, into each board three times to secure it in place without visible holes.  Then we shimmied it into place on the wall and fastened it to the wall.


The full post end was only slightly different since we used longer screws.  Ben pre-drilled through the post, creating a recess for the screw head, then drove the screws into place while I kept the each board in place.



Working on the flat side was easy enough and went quickly, but the angled side was a bit tricky.  Again, removing the old was step number one.


Another 38 inch tall 4 by 4 post was set into the hole at the top of the stairs.


To keep the spacing between the boards even with the flat areas, the post at the bottom had to be taller since the angled cuts make the planks taller.  This post had to be notched out to cut around the stair wall before screwing it in at the base.


Then time for the straight meets angled cut to follow the stair angle.  Once the angles fit perfectly, Ben applied glue on the angle and drove screws in from the top and bottom to keep everything rigid and in place until the glue dried.


Like the other side, Ben put two screws into each plank.


In that corner, where the stairs meet the small section terminated to the wall, we had to stagger the screws so they didn’t cross.  Since the wall section is shorter, one screw in the center held firmly.


After everything was securely fastened on the upper sections, Ben drove 6 inch long screws through the posts and into the wall studs below for maximum rigidity.

For a seamless finish, I filled each screw hole, knot hole, and hairline crack with putty and sanded smooth.


Caulking along the seams and walls was the last step before painting.


When painting over raw wood like pine, sap bleed through can be an issue.  For greatest durability and stain blocking, I applied one coat of the same stain I used on our bedroom wall: Sherwin Williams Exterior Oil-Based Wood Primer.  It’s stinky, so I built a fire and opened the windows to air the room out.


Knowing white will show any dirt, grubby hand marks, and well, everything else, I needed a paint that could withstand a good scrub.  After a chat with my favorite paint guy at our local Ace Hardware, he suggested Benjamin Moore’s Ben Exterior paint in the low lustre finish to avoid a glossy finish.  Three coats later and it’s a wrap.


With this checked off the to do list, we can start hanging sheet rock in the basement.