Just a Trim

Well, we finally have gotten around to trimming out (most) of the new windows, settling on the same style we used in the main bathroom.  Unfortunately, I still have to fill holes, caulk joints, prime, and paint everything.  I know what I’ll be doing the rest of the week.

New Window Trim

But right now, it’s nice to see trim, albeit brown and white trim, instead of sheet rock edges and home foam.  The side casement is 3 1/2 inch wide trim with a 3/4 inch thick by 1 inch deep bead molding/fillet, topped off by a 5 inch tall top casement.

New Window Trim Top Detail

For the bottom half, the 3 1/2 inch casement is on both the sides and bottom with a 1 inch thick window stool overhanging the casement by a half-inch.

New Window Trim Bottom Detail

All the house windows are trimmed, but we still have to track down a piece of oak for the floor at the sliding door.

New Window Trim Sliding Door

And then figure out curtain placement and height.  In the family room, I’m dreaming of pretty curtains, hung on either side of each window and the door.  Not sure yet if the sconces will hinder that plan.

But I’ve got another problem, hopefully you can help; height of the curtains.  I’m assuming it would look best to hang the curtain rod an inch or two above the new trim, which is fine in the living spaces.  However, I’ve already made curtains for the boys’ bedroom, before we decided on a trim style.  Which means, if I raise the curtains in their room a few inches, they’ll look short at the floor.  Without moving the current set up, the curtain rod is about an inch below the top of the trim.

New Window Trim With Curtains

So, do you have any ideas or tips?  Perhaps you’ve sewn curtains that are now too short?  What did you do to fix it?

22 thoughts on “Just a Trim

  1. Can you get rid of the sconces? I think curtains would look better than the sconces if it comes down to that.
    I always cringe when it comes to filling in holes and all the other finishing jazz! Enjoy!

    1. Hey Esther!

      I’m hoping we can figure out a way to ditch the sconces. As it is, we can’t plug in lamps without running cords and tripping over them and we don’t have room in the attic for recessed lights. According to code, we need lights at the door, so we’re stuck with sconces unless we figure out a better plan, but I totally agree with you! Especially regarding the sconces that are currently there. 🙂 I’m dreading the whole process, but I know I’ll be happy when it’s all done.


      1. Just FYI – code requires (looking at the IRC 2012 specifically) that you have lights at the exterior side of an egress door having grade level access, not on the interior side – so remove those sconces if you want! As for your lamps, you could put an outlet on the floor under your couch or end table. Might at least contain those wires from tripping hazards.

  2. hanging the curtains with ribbon ties or those rings with clips would give you a couple inches of added length…

  3. I agree with Kinj! I was going to say rings too, but I like the idea of ribbon better. That would give you some flexibility in height since those rings will probably only add about a 1 to 1-1/2 inch.

  4. Are you opposed to simple, airy Romans? Then you can see all of the trim and still have the clean lines around the sconces. Plus they’d look pretty behind those slipper chairs.

    1. Hey Sara!

      I’m not opposed to Roman shades, that’s what I initially thought of using. But I kind of like the idea of adding softness and making the windows and door look more like one unit, rather than three… Those darn sconces might get in the way though.


    1. Hey Ashley!

      Ha, I guess I can kind of understand where he’s coming from. I don’t like when curtains are hung too high above the windows, but wide, definitely! 🙂 Good luck convincing him!


  5. I had a similar curtain problem once. The curtains were solid white tab-top and I lengthened them by sewing a wide strip of contrasting black-and-white print fabric on the bottom. I also added a narrow strip of the same fabric at the top right under the tabs. The bottom piece started well above the hem line and the top piece covered the seams where the tabs were sewn into the curtains. Then I made a throw pillow with the same print fabric to sort of tie it together.

  6. I was thinking the same thing. How about refreshing the curtains and putting in a nice chocolate brown (looks like brown on my sad monitor) strip at the bottom and then putting a similar strip down the edges of the curtains where they meet? Adds a little “something” without buying new curtains + adds length!

    1. Hi Paula,

      I can definitely add length to the curtains I sewed for our bedroom (they’re plain white right now), but I’m not sure how to go about adding length to the boys’ painted stripe panels? Perhaps a completely different color?

      Thanks for the ideas!

  7. I really liked your idea of using MDF for the window jamb…much more cost effective (a fellow DIYer). I did have a question. Have you ever had any problem with having a raw MDF edge against the window? I wondered if having a raw edge against a cold, potentially condensing window causes swelling over time. Any info you have would be appreciated. Also, how long have you had trim like that in to observe?

    1. Hey Dory!

      We had MDF around our windows at our old house for six years and never had a problem. That could be because the windows we had didn’t have a lot of condensation or because we live in a relatively dry climate. Also, painting the edges before installing can really help seal the MDF to prevent swelling.

      If your windows sweat a lot or you’ve had water issues, I wouldn’t suggest MDF. At least not for the sill, but the top and side jamb should still be okay… Hope that answers your question, but if you’re still wondering, please ask!


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