Ready, Set, Cabinets

Onward with the kitchen remodel.  After dealing with the floors and laying new tile, we took a few days off before grouting.  Tile’s all fun and games until you’ve spent four days on your knees.  Once grouted, we were able to clean the haze and install cabinets.

Kitchen-Slate-Tile-Cleaning

Ben started with the sink, centering it under the window.  He built toe kicks using 2 by 4 boards on edge, working around a vent and leveling as he went along.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinet-and-Sink-Installed

The floor on the far end is about an inch lower than the sink, so he shimmed the toe kick to avoid adjusting the cabinet boxes.  This way, the toe kick covers will hide the variance.  At the end of night one, we had a functioning sink, two drawer stacks, and the drawer below the wall ovens in.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinets-Sink-Side-Installed

Looky there, an island!

Kitchen-Base-Cabinet-Install-Both-Sides-from-Office

To accommodate the cooktop, the two center cabinets are about 9 inches shorter.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinet-Installing-Island

After living with a single level island and stove combo, we knew we wanted to create a raised bar for separation.  Potential burns just aren’t worth one level.  For adequate counter support, Ben built a wall that is six inches taller than the cabinets.

Kitchen-Cabinet-Install-Island-Wall

He’ll run the gas for the range through here.  Creating the raised bar also gives a convenient place for outlets, which we much prefer over end boxes.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinets-Installed

With the fridge in place, the kitchen is half functional again.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinets-Island-Side

Some of the drawers are loaded up with essentials.  Including the trash that will stay under the cooktop.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinets-Island-Back-Toward-Sink

The last thing to go in will be the wall ovens.  After cabinet faces and paint.

Kitchen-Cabinets-Installed-Wall-Oven

But the sink, that makes life a heck of a lot easier.

Kitchen-Base-Cabinets-and-Sink-Side

Two more base and three uppers to go.  Things are taking shape!

Blank Slate

We’ve been busting our butts to knock out as much of the kitchen as possible.  After installing the ceiling planks, we turned our attention to the floors.  First, we had to take out the majority of the cabinets.  Everything except the kitchen sink, to keep things functional as long as possible.

Kitchen-Cabinet-Removal

With cabinet out-of-the-way, Ben used a rented tool to help pry up the tile.

Kitchen-Tile-Floor-Removal-Tool

Removing the tile was necessary for a few reasons.  The most basic is cosmetic; having never liked the look and wide grout lines, we didn’t want to work around it.  Secondly, the tile went around the cabinets, which is a problem because we’re slightly shifting the island.

Kitchen-Sub-Floor-Removal

Most importantly, the tile was installed over plywood.  Our subfloor starts with a layer of plywood with particle board over that, and then another layer of thin plywood.  All glued like a sandwich.  In wet areas, this can cause shifting and settling as water seeps under.  Which happened around the sink and fridge.  In fact, we discovered an area of prolonged exposure that rotted completely through to the basement.  To fix the area, Ben cut out the problem hole and some surrounding wood.

Kitchen-Subfloor-Rotten-Area-Removed

Adding a few braces to the exposed joists and topping it with new sub floor fixes it quickly.

Kitchen-Subfloor-Rotten-Area-Replacement

What wasn’t quick was removing was prying up the top layer of plywood to get a smooth base.  Pulling up the tile and sub floor took a full two days.

Kitchen-Floor-and-Cabinet-Removal

Sucky, but totally worth it to properly install our new tile.  Ahh, a blank slate to start adding to.

Kitchen-Subfloors-Ready-for-Backer

It was interesting pulling up the top layer as it revealed the old kitchen layout.  Part of the kitchen (where the fridge and office were) was added along with the pool house.

Kitchen-Subfloors-Before

There’s an area of particle board, then a filler strip where the exterior wall once was, and then the addition.  I’m guessing the stove went along this wall, based on the patched vent hole.

Kitchen-Subfloors-Old-Placement

With the floors even and clean, we started laying Hardie Backer board.

Kitchen-Backer-Board-Install

Three and a half hours and 35 sheets later, we finished and let it dry.

Kitchen-Backer-Board-Done

Finally, the fun part – tile!  After laying out a row of staggered brick pattern, I made an 11th hour change and tried out herringbone.  With such a long area (29 feet from the door to the family room) it looked better to have a pattern that looked the same from every wall.  Rather than a brick pattern from one side and lines from another.

Kitchen-Slate-Floors-Dry

We used the same slate tile from the bathroom because we loved it so much.  It’s beautiful, easy to work with, gets a great anti slip rating, and we can carry it into the pool house.  Hopefully grout will happen in the next few days.

Kitchen-Slate-Floors-Detail

In addition to finishing the floors, we also needed to get the ceiling painted before cabinets can go in.  Tongue and groove is a pain to paint with a brush and roller.  I know this after painting the bathroom.  And that was roughly 1/10 of the size.  To speed up the process, we masked off the windows, both doors, and the floors to get spraying.  Ben uses this sprayer  at work often, so he tackled the painting while I looked for light areas.

Kitchen-Ceiling-Spraying-Primer

Once the primer dried, we painted the ceiling with Sherwin Williams Snowbound in a satin finish.  Here’s the room before paint:

Kitchen-Ceiling-Primed

And right after:

Kitchen-Ceiling-Afer-Paint

The paint haze in the room was crazy.  Which makes it really important to wear a vapor mask.  After all that, here’s what the kitchen looks like:

Kitchen-Slate-Floors-into-Office

A bare shell, ready to fill with cabinets, appliances, and all of our kitchen essentials.

Kitchen-Slate-Floors-from-Living-Room

We’ve officially passed the deconstruction and are on the construction side.  Although we will have to do a little more demo to replace the door.

Kitchen-Slate-Floors-from-Family-Room

But, that’s going to wait until we get back to a functioning kitchen.  You know, a room with a sink.  Speaking of sinks, this custom-made beauty arrived last week.

Apron-Front-Kitchen-Sink

Love at first sight.  It’s 36 by 25 and 9 inches deep.  The makers also crafted a strainer basket, so that was a fun bonus.  So excited to get that stunner in and wash some dishes.  Until then, we’re washing our dishes in the laundry tub.

Clean-Dishes-on-Washing-Machine

The washer makes a great drying rack.  🙂

Wrecking Ball

We sure know how to holiday around here.  As a Christmas gift to each other, we’re tackling the kitchen remodel.  Tuesday evening, Ben removed the bay of 2 feet deep pantry cabinets.  He was able to get each one out fully intact, so they’re in the garage, waiting for a new home.

Kitchen-Pantry-Cabinets-Out

Christmas Eve morning, we picked up 10,000 pounds of slate tile for the kitchen and pool house.   After Ben and a friend unloaded it all, the remodel literally started with a bang.  Ben was itching to knock out this wall.  Unlike our last kitchen remodel, this wall is not load bearing, thanks to free span trusses.

Kitchen-to-Dining-Wide-Opening-Frame-Removal

All the planning and ideas of how this would look still didn’t prepare us for the result.  It’s amazing how open everything is!  We could host a cooking show in here now.  Okay, not right now.  Maybe once we’re finished.

Kitchen-to-Dining-Wide-Opening

Over the weekend, we installed pine tongue and groove ceiling planks.  Keeping the kitchen functional as long as possible is our goal, so the ceiling was something we could work on without interrupting anything else.

Kitchen-Tongue-and-Groove-Planks-Starting

Replacing the large flourescent light with 6 inch cans and LED bulbs has really changed the mood of the room.

Kitchen-Ceiling-Tongue-and-Groove-Planks

Soft light radiates down, rather than the surgical light before.  After finishing the ceiling, we started emptying and removing cabinets.  Instead of this:

Kitchen-Two-Years-Later

We’ve got this:

Kitchen-After-Moving-Fridge

Fridge in the dining room.  Clutter all over the counters until we get more bins to pack everything away.

Kitchen-Ceiling-Tongue-and-Groove-Planks-and-Wide-Door

A wonderfully large opening connecting the rooms.

Kitchen-to-Dining-Opening-without-Uppers

And loads more work ahead of us.

Kitchen-Ceiling-Tongue-and-Groove-Planks-Toward-Family-Room

Next up, removing upper cabinets, spraying the ceiling white, and then out with everything else.

Kitchen Cabinets, Part 1

During our last kitchen renovation, I shared how we built our cabinets.  Over the weekend, Ben built every drawer, 9 total, for the island.  We’ve made a few changes while building our new cabinets, so I’m giving the scoop now.  To get as much detail as possible, I’m sharing how he built the boxes and drawers now.  Once we finish the fronts, I’ll discuss the materials and process for those.

As he finished each drawer, I sanded the tops and sides smooth for clear coat.  Four days later, here’s our island, ready for install.

Kitchen-Cabinets-Island-Build

The right stack are for either side of the stove.  On the left are the shorter cabinets the cook top will rest on.  Originally, we planned to put the trash under the sink again, but started discussing and agreed it is better under the stove.  With a half width drawer under, if someone is cooking, it’s easy enough to scoot to the side to throw something away.  At the sink, you have to step all the way over, stopping what you are doing.  So, that’s why there’s only one drawer in the lower box.

Our bathroom vanity was a trial run of sorts for the kitchen cabinet process.  All boxes are constructed with 3/4 inch thick, double-sided melamine coated particle board.  Melamine is ideal for wet or potentially wet areas such as kitchens.  Box assembly is otherwise the same as before.

One big change we made is the drawer material.  Last time we used 3/4 inch plywood.  It’s sturdy, but everything we can get now is a lower grade.  Low grade plywood warps easier, which can skew the drawer.  We also didn’t want to fill ugly edges.  This time around, we went with 3/4 inch thick poplar for the sides and 1/2 inch double-sided melamine for drawer bottoms.  Using a dado bit in the table saw, Ben cut a 1/2 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep groove a half-inch from the bottom.

Kitchen-Drawer-Assembly-GroovesHe repeated this process for both sides and the front.  The backs are an inch shorter and are glued directly to the drawer base.  A bead of glue inside the groove holds the base in place.  Each side slips in over, nailing the corners for added strength.

Kitchen-Cabinet-Drawer-Base-Grooves

After the three sides are in place, Ben runs a line of glue on the base and side corners before sliding the back in.  A few more nails and the drawer is assembled.  That’s when I get to start working.  I used 220 grit paper to sand the top edges and sides smooths, paying extra attention to the joints.  Before sealing, I quickly vacuum off dust.  To keep the melamine base clean, I taped off the edges before applying two coats of clear water based poly.

Kitchen-Drawers-Taped-Off-Base

One really great advantage of building our own cabinets is tailoring them to our needs.  For instance, the drawer heights are perfect for us.  We always prefer three drawers over a shorter stack of four.

Before we start building drawers, I measure a bunch of items to decide the minimum height for each drawer.  I tell Ben what I need the usable space to be.  To accommodate tall pots, leaving a little breathing room, our bottom drawer inside space is 11 inches tall.  Our top drawer can be no shorter than 4 1/2 inches inside to store our spice drawers.  Middle drawers are always the remaining space.  Knowing my measurements and that the bottom and glides take up 1 inch, Ben knows where to attach the glides.

Kitchen-Drawer-Glides-Mounted-in-Box

Another big difference this go around are the drawer glides.  Last time, we didn’t want to sacrifice drawer height, so we used side mount glides.  With a bigger kitchen, we are less concerned about that and chose Blum soft close, under mount glides.

Comparatively, these puppies are not cheap.  About $17 per pair versus $6 for the same size.  We made our island deeper than standard, 31 inches, to leave space between the cooktop and bar.  Longer pairs cost $45 each.  That’s 405 dollars in drawer glides for just the island!  Even with the price tag, after using these in the bathroom, neither of us would go back to the old style.  These are the cats pajamas.  Seriously, full extension, 100 pound heavy-duty rating, quiet, and smooth.

Kitchen-Drawers-Inside-Box

With the slide installed, he secures clips to the under side of each drawer.  That’s the orange thing you see in the above photo.

Kitchen-Drawers-Blum-Undermount-Clips-Side

These clips are the only thing physically holding the drawer to the glide.

Blum-Drawer-Glides-from-Under

Did I mention these glides are tucked completely underneath, hidden out of sight.

Kitchen-Drawers-Undermount-Glides

That’s all we can do on cabinets until we get everything set in the kitchen.  Then we add the face frames, drawer fronts, and hardware.  We’re nailing down those details soon.

We also made unexpected progress on the countertops over the weekend.  Hoping to get pricing and see our options, we popped in a local marble and granite supplier.  I said I preferred a dark, matte to satin finish stone.  The owner showed us really beautiful leathered granite and a gorgeous soap stone remnant pile.  After talking it over with him, he made us an offer we couldn’t refuse: 100 bucks for six soap stone pieces.  Three are more than enough for our kitchen, so we loaded it up that day.  Because soap stone is on the soft side, it’s easy to cut and polish at home.  Ben’s no stranger to working with stone counters, so we’re thrilled.  Right now, the slabs are stacked together, with the backs facing out.  But, I can’t wait to share more!

Our rule is to have everything on site and ready for install before anything gets ripped out.  Slowly, things are coming in.  Flooring, a new door, and the sink should arrive soon.  It can’t get here soon enough.  Almost daily, Ben threatens to tear things out.

Dependant Pendants

We’re making progress with the kitchen.  All cabinet boxes are built, except the sink which we’re waiting to build until we have a sink in hand.  As of now, half of the basement is cabinet shells, stacked tetris style.

Kitchen-Cabinets-Stored-in-Basement

For appliances, we’re only missing our sink.  The current dishwasher and refrigerator are staying.  A gorgeous 48 inch cook top, stainless vent hood insert, and stacked double ovens are hanging out, waiting for a permanent home.

What we expected to be easy, has become a search: finding the perfect sink. Knowing we loved the last custom-made sink (as well as our bathroom shower pan and counter by the same fabricator), we started there.  Unfortunately, their rates have almost tripled to complete our design.  Much like Duran Duran, we’re on the hunt.  And hungry like the wolf.

In the interim, Ben is starting drawer assembly and we’re waiting for our new sliding door to arrive.  Nitty gritty details are being discussed and planned regularly.  Lighting is the most recent debate.  After several discussions, I think we’ve settled it.  The smaller white dots represent recessed cans and the black show pendants.

Kitchen-Floor-Plan-with-Lighting

I quite like these small pendants at Home Depot.  Directing the lighting down should make the bar area feel cozier, and won’t blind people in other rooms.

Sleek glass pendants are my back up, if we feel the black attract too much attention.  

Then I start second guessing whether I want pendants or not.  We need a vent hood, and the wider cook top needs a larger fan.  But, with the cook top in the island, that vent hood takes up a fair amount of space.  Visually and literally.  The plan is to box around it as simply and minimally as possible.  Perhaps similar to this, but in the middle of the room.

This white with wood band is really stunning, too.

I’m not sure if I’ll like the look of the big hood and smaller pendant combo.  Especially when the lights are less than two feet from the boxing.  I’ve searched for inspiration, but most island set ups have either pendants or a vent hood.  Not both.  Few that do, have pendants to the sides, not over a bar, like this:

Any ideas, suggestions, or pictures you have to help decide?